The Strook Shawl 

This is a scrap buster worked with one main colour (MC) and any fingering-weight contrast colours (CC) you like. It is a relaxed, beginner-friendly knit, and gauge is not crucial. Looking for another easy project in an assigned pooling colourway? Try our ParalleloPooling Shawl.

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Introduction

The Strook Shawl is the kind of project you can pick up at any time, whether you have an entire evening ahead of you or just ten minutes with your coffee. Its simple lace and garter rhythm makes it a wonderfully mindless knit, perfect for unwinding.

Best of all, it is a scrap buster: the stripe sections are ideal for showing off leftover yarns from your stash or for mixing small amounts of precious hand-dyed skeins with a main colour. Whether you go for a bold rainbow or a subtle gradient, every version becomes uniquely yours.

Sizes

The shawl can easily be modified to any desired size.

Two samples are shown in this pattern's pictures. The small (S) sample has a wingspan (point to point) after blocking of 56 inch / 142 cm, with a depth (at the centre of the shawl, this is the width at the widest point) of 16.5 inch / 42 cm. The large (L) sample has a wingspan of approximately 73 inch / 185 cm, with a depth of 22 inch / 56 cm.

Yarn

A solid-coloured fingering-weight yarn is recommended as your MC. As a contrast colour, any fingering-weight yarn will do.

S sample
MC: Silkn'n Wool by Wol met Verve (fingering-weight, 75% merino / 25% silk, 420 m / 459 yds per 100g) in the colour Mahogany.
CC: scraps of fingering-weight yarn (85% merino wool / 15% nylon, 400 m / 437 yds per 100g) as a gradient. The shawl has CC stripes until about halfway through and continues in MC afterwards.

L sample
MC: Deluxe Sock by Auridon Yarns (fingering-weight, 85% merino wool / 15% nylon, 400 m / 437 yds per 100g) in the colour Berlin.
CC: a 40-piece 2016 sample collection from Madelinetosh Twist Light in various colours, filling the shawl all the way with stripes.

Materials

Yardage, S
MC: 351 m / 384 yds (or 84g)
CC: approximately 188 m / 206 yds (or 15 x 3g)

Yardage, L
MC: 483 m / 528 yds (or 115g), divided into 2 balls: one that has 80% and one 20% for the edge
CC: approximately 120g (479 m / 524 yds)

You can easily customise the size of your shawl based on how much yarn you have available. If you are running low on your MC, or want to make the most of a special CC, simply adjust the number of pattern repeats. This flexibility makes it a great project for using up leftover skeins or working with precious hand-dyed yarns.

Needles
4 mm / US6 needles, either DPNs, straight or circulars

Notions
Scissors, tapestry needle, (optional) blocking materials

Gauge
19 sts x 40 rows = 4x4 inch / 10x10 cm in pattern stitch on 4 mm / US6 needles after blocking. Gauge is not crucial for this pattern. As long as you like the fabric you are getting and it drapes well, you are good to go. Just keep in mind that changes in gauge might affect the final size of your shawl and the amount of yarn you will need, so it is a good idea to have a little extra on hand if you are making adjustments.

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Helpful videos

There are many ways to work the I cord tab cast on, so two different videos are included. If you prefer any other way, please feel free to choose your own.

Lace pattern stitch 

The lace pattern for this shawl consists of only 4 repeat rows:

Row 1: k3, {k2tog, yo}, repeat until 4 sts before the end of the row, kfb, sl3wyf. (+1)
Rows 2, 3 and 4: knit all stitches.

Abbreviations

CC: contrast coloured yarn
k: knit
kfb: knit into the front and the back of the same stitch (1 stitch increased)
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased)
LHN: left-hand needle
MC: main coloured yarn
RHN: right-hand needle
RS: right side of the work
sl3wyf: slip 3 stitches purlwise with the yarn in the front
st(s): stitches
WS: wrong side of work
yo: yarnover

Pattern instructions

Cast on

There is a link to an instruction video in the helpful videos section.

Cast on an I cord edge tab with the larger ball of MC yarn using the preferred method of your choice, or use the following instructions:

  1. Hold two needles parallel to each other in your dominant hand. The working yarn should be over your other hand's index finger, and the tail over your thumb, similar to a long-tail cast on.
  2. Place the tail yarn under the bottom needle and over the top needle. This creates the first stitch on the top needle.
  3. Move the working yarn under the bottom needle and wrap it over the top, forming a stitch on the bottom needle. Alternate between the top and bottom needle, wrapping the yarn around each to create stitches.
  4. Repeat until you have 7 stitches (3 on the bottom and 4 on the top needle).

Basically, the steps above are similar to Judy's Magic Cast On method. There are many great videos on YouTube that will show you how to do this particular cast on.

  1. Change your needles into a knitting position, so that the needle in your left hand contains 3 stitches and the one in your right hand 4 stitches.
  2. Twist the working yarn as well as the tail end and, after twisting them, bring them from the back to the front of your work together in between your needles.
  3. Slip the 3 stitches from your LHN to your RHN. Turn your work.
  4. Knit to 4 stitches before the end of the row. Kfb. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn. (1 stitch increased)
  5. {Knit to 3 stitches before the end of the row. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.} Repeat this step 3 times in total.
  6. Work steps 4 and 5 a total of 4 times. There should be 11 stitches on your needles.

Body, increase part

Row 1 (RS): Knit the first 3 stitches using the large ball of MC yarn. Switch to the CC yarn and twist the two yarns on the intersection, similar to intarsia. {k2tog, yo}, repeat until there are either 4 or 5 stitches left on your LHN. Make sure you end the sequence with the yo. If 4 stitches are left: k1. If 5 stitches are left: k2. Bring the yarn to the front of your work in between your needles. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.

Row 2 (WS): With the smaller ball of MC yarn, knit the first 3 stitches on your needle. Twist the MC yarn with the CC yarn (intarsia) and knit all stitches with the CC yarn to 3 stitches before the end of the row. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.

Row 3: With the large ball of MC yarn, knit to 4 stitches before the end of the row. Kfb. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn. (1 stitch increased)

Row 4: With the small ball of MC yarn, knit the first 3 stitches on your needle. Twist this strand of MC yarn with the other strand of MC yarn (intarsia style), drop the strand of yarn that is attached to the small ball and knit with the larger ball of MC yarn all stitches to 3 stitches before the end of the row. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.

Continue rows 1 to 4 until the increase part of your shawl has the desired length.

When to change from increasing to decreasing?
Continue until the increase part has your desired length. For the small sample, increases were made until there were 80 stitches on the needles. For the large sample, increases were made until there were 104 stitches on the needles.

Body, decrease part

This part is almost exactly the same as the increase part. The big difference is that the increase (Kfb) in row 3 is replaced with a decrease (k2tog).

Row 1: Knit the first 3 stitches using the larger ball of MC yarn. Switch to the CC yarn and twist the two yarns on the intersection, similar to intarsia. {k2tog, yo}, repeat until there are either 4 or 5 stitches left on your LHN. Make sure you end the sequence with the yo. If 4 stitches are left: k1. If 5 stitches are left: k2. Bring the yarn to the front of your work in between your needles. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.

Row 2: With the smaller ball of MC yarn, knit the first 3 stitches on your needle. Twist the MC yarn with the CC yarn (intarsia) and knit all stitches with the CC yarn to 3 stitches before the end of the row. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.

Row 3: With the large ball of MC yarn, knit to 5 stitches before the end of the row. K2tog. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn. (1 stitch decreased)

Row 4: With the small ball of MC yarn, knit the first 3 stitches on your needle. Twist this strand of MC yarn with the other strand of (the big ball of) MC yarn (intarsia) and knit all stitches to 3 stitches before the end of the row. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.

Finishing rows

Continue until there are only 7 stitches left on your needles. End with a row 4. Break the CC yarn and one of the MC yarns and continue with the MC yarn only.

Row 1: Knit the first 4 stitches using the MC yarn. Bring your yarn to the front. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn.
Row 2: Repeat finishing row 1.
Row 3: Knit the first 3 stitches. K2tog. Slip one stitch from your RHN to your LHN. Bring yarn to the front of your work. Slip the 3 last stitches purlwise from your LHN to your RHN. Turn. (1 stitch decreased)
Row 4: Knit 3 stitches and leave the other 3 stitches unworked: 3 stitches on your LHN and 3 stitches on your RHN.

Bind off

Use the following written instructions to graft your stitches together, or do an I cord bind off after watching an instruction video.

  1. Split your stitches so that there are 3 stitches on each needle (similar to how you would split the stitches to work the Magic Loop). You will now graft these stitches together.
  2. Hold your needles parallel to each other with WS together (facing in) and RS facing out. Cut the yarn leaving a tail of approximately 25 cm / 10 inch. Thread it onto your tapestry needle.
  3. Go through the first stitch on the front needle purlwise, leave the stitch on the needle.
  4. Go through the first stitch on the back needle knitwise and leave this stitch on the needle as well.
  5. Put your needle through the first stitch on the front needle knitwise and pull the stitch off your needle.
  6. Go through the next stitch on the front needle purlwise and leave the stitch on the needle.
  7. Put your needle through the next stitch on the back needle purlwise and pull the stitch off your needle.
  8. Go through the next stitch on the back needle knitwise and leave the stitch on the needle.
  9. Repeat steps 5 to 8 once more, then repeat steps 5 and 7. All of your stitches should be off your needles.

Finishing

Weave in ends, block the shawl to open up the texture, and enjoy your Strook Shawl!

Usage

This pattern is for personal use only. You may not copy, distribute, or sell this pattern. You may sell items made from this pattern in small quantities with credit to Auridon Yarns as the designer.

You did it! Congratulations on finishing your Strook Shawl. I would love to see your work. Share it on Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #thestrookshawl and tag @AuridonYarns, or add your project to Ravelry so others can be inspired by your lovely work.

More patterns

Looking for a one skein project? Try the ParalleloPooling Shawl, designed for assigned pooling yarn.